My Love-Hate Relationship with Hong Kong
Without realizing it, I’ve lived in Hong Kong for more than two years. I’ve had a constant love-hate relationship with Hong Kong even before I arrived from Toronto in 2014. As a young child, I visited the city where my parents once lived and another time as an adult, and both times I pledged that I won’t live here.
But my life is ironic and nothing ever goes as planned.
In 2013, I saw a job opportunity that seemed enticing to me. I thought, maybe I can give Hong Kong a chance because living and visiting a place are two different things.
To my surprise, my first nine months were amazing. I enjoyed work, I made friends on and off campus and I finally can understand people with no language barrier.
Things were good and I was enjoying myself but that slowly changed. After I left my first job, the weather started to heat up, my new job was stressful and I was slowly falling apart. The longer I lived here, the more things I noticed and things I became dissatisfied with. Even though I enjoyed Hong Kong, I couldn’t deny I was also struggling to keep up.
I’ve analyzed a few aspects of living in Hong Kong and put out the advantages and disadvantages. These are all personal opinions and observations that I made while living in Hong Kong.
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Cost of living
Advantages: My best advice is to stay local and to try Hong Kong food. Local food can range from low to high – depending on the cuisine, type of restaurant and the location – but you will have some options for more ‘reasonable’ prices for eating. Keep your options open. In addition, transportation is cheap and convenient, making it a comfortable home for many.
Disadvantages: Hong Kong is now ranked as the most expensive housing market in the world for the sixth year in a row and it is becoming impossible for young people to buy a home. This has implications on the entire economy and everyone who lives in the city. It means that young people have to stay with their families due to their inability to rent/buy their own. Eating out in restaurants is also unaffordable because the prices are also a reflection of the rent that they need to pay for. It also means cutting back on going out and budgeting well.
Language usage
Advantages: Cantonese is a difficult language to learn and the one good thing about this city is that there is a lot of English signage. Most restaurants have English menus, especially chain restaurants and ones that are located inside malls. Even if they do not, you can ask if they have a special English menu and sometimes, they actually do. You just have to ask for it and pinpoint what you want. Most people also speak some type and form of English but how fluent they really depend on their interest in English and their exposure.
Disadvantages: Even though most signage is in English, not all menus are offered in English. For example, the daily special menu is changed frequently so these are not found in English. So you lock out on what you can choose. Also, most labor-intensive workers may not speak a lot of English given their education level. And even though Hong Kong used to be a British colony, the level of English may mostly be from reading textbooks and lecture notes. You may sometimes hear and see some odd phrases everywhere, and badly written e-mails from large corporations. The level of English is said to be going down each year as Hong Kong now belongs to China and the exposure to the language is slowly diminishing.
Work-life balance
Advantages: Hong Kong is in a good geographical location. It is easy and cheap to fly to many countries from here. You can easily go to many parts of East Asia and Southeast Asia with various budget airlines to choose from. To top it off, Hong Kong locals love to travel and use their vacations wisely to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city.
Disadvantages: Young people here work a lot until they burn out and then they go away on vacations to compensate. Employers expect you to give your all while you’re young and expect you to work long hours and overtime (with no overtime pay). Psychologically and emotionally, you are tied to work. All you think about is how to earn more and move up because Hong Kong is a busy and competitive society, and if you don’t want to do it, you know someone will quickly replace you. It is a fast-paced society where money and climbing the ladder are top priorities.
Weather and climate
Advantages: If you hate the cold and freezing weather, Hong Kong may be your new home. There are only two main seasons in Hong Kong, with three-fourths of the year ranging from warm to extremely hot weather. This year, the warm weather started around March, extremely hot weather from June to September, and warmth again that lasted until mid-November. At the end of November, it is a little chilly, with temperatures around 10-15 Celsius. Since it is a very humid city, meaning it is wet and cold, you may need to bring a spring jacket when walking around the city but it’s rather comfortable.
Disadvantages: This type of weather is certainly not right for everyone. If you have allergies or any type of skin condition, it can get so severe living in Hong Kong. I’ve heard many cases of eczema that started or got worse due to Hong Kong’s pollution and weather. It causes horrible discomfort on the skin in the summer, as you constantly sweat and feel sticky all over. When you are outside, you are burning, and when you go inside, it is freezing with air-conditioning. For me, this type of weather has been a constant battle for my health. Also, due to the humidity and wetness, a dehumidifier is necessary. Otherwise, your things can get moldy and extremely wet.
Education
Advantages: Hong Kong has some of the best universities in the world. Every year, there are a few local universities that are ranked on the world’s top universities list. Also, if you go to a local university, the government funds undergraduate students, paying a huge portion of the tuition.
Disadvantages: I work in the education sector and I look down at the education gap that keeps widening. When asked about the education system here, I say two things that sum up my feelings: 1) Life planning starts at two years old, and 2) Education in Hong Kong is made for the elite and the wealthy.
To me, it is absurd that students have to go through a number of exams and interviews to get into a school, even for kindergarten, due to the competitive nature and a lack of good schools. Schools are divided into three bands. Band 1 is the best, band 2 is medium/average, and band 3 is the weakest students. If you don’t get into a good kindergarten at three years old, then your chances of going to a really good school are really slim as well (preferably band 1 primary school). So in a way, if you don’t plan well from a young age, you are also left with little options later on in life.
For those who can afford to escape the local system, you take the international school route which costs a fortune. Most schools require a large debenture in addition to expensive tuition fees. The debenture helps you get an interview which can lead to possible enrolment and the more you pay, the higher your chances. So if you ask me, it’s not really fair. The ones who go to international school are usually those with a wealthy family background and who plan to leave Hong Kong to go to top schools in the US and the UK. Therefore, it’s all about prestige and where you come from, and your social and economic background that set your future in Hong Kong.
Entertainment and activities
Positive: Hong Kong is a vibrant and dynamic city. There’s something for everyone. For those who love the outdoors, Hong Kong provides beautiful scenery and many hiking trails. If you want a party lifestyle, head down to Lan Kwai Fong where you can find international pubs and restaurants that open until dawn and tons of people on the streets that will socialize with you as well. If you are a foodie and love trying different cuisines, chances are you will find it in the city. From traditional Cantonese dishes to authentic American food, it’s all here.
Disadvantages: Unfortunately, everything comes with a price. The reason things are open late is that workers get off late. Since they need to accommodate people’s late working hours, restaurants and stores need to be open later and people have fewer holidays. On most holidays (except Chinese New Year), everything is open. This is awesome for the majority of people, except the workers themselves.
In regards to food, yes, you can find whatever food your heart desires but it comes with a price as well. If you are homesick and missing some Western food, think twice if you actually want to pay the price for it. It is a luxury to eat American/British/French food because it is imported and it is considered “exotic”. These are also served in some of the most expensive parts of the city which are expat-oriented and targets tourists and foreigners.
Transportation
Advantages: Hong Kong is small and there are enough people that make Hong Kong continuously have a good reason to expand. Wherever you wish to go, there are multiple options to get there. If the subway is not close to your destination, you can choose the bus or even the minibus. One of these options always can get exactly where you want to go as they are run by different companies that cover different parts of the city. And if it all does not work out, taxi is so affordable here and you can simply get one by swinging your hand in the air.
Disadvantages: Hong Kong has more than seven million people and even though all three transportation methods are convenient, it is crowded. For example, the minibus can only seat 16 passengers, so the line can be super long at certain hours of the day. The bus is double-decker so it is generally better but that also depends on the time of day. Lastly, the subway. The subway is always full at all hours of the day and even though it is perhaps the fastest and most convenient mode of transportation, the stations require lots of walking (even if it’s indoors) and at every hour you don’t have any space to yourself.
If you live in Hong Kong, I would love to know how you feel about these points! Do you agree or disagree? Let me know below!
Originally published on EJ Insight
Interesting read! I visited Hong Kong for the first time in November. To be honest, I didn’t expect much, but i ended up LOVING it. I hated leaving and wished I had given myself more than 4 days. That being said I can see it being somewhat stressful to live. Busy, expensive cost of living… yeah I’m happy just visiting.
Hi Hannah! I’m not surprised. A lot of people come visit and then the next thing you know, move their bags to live in the city! It is a great place but it can be expensive and stressful (depends on your job). Glad you enjoyed your visit though!
It was interesting to read about education – my friend did an exchange semester there and her comment was that it was not what she expected, even at the university level too much memorizing and very little ability of students to make creative choices or any choices of their own, expecting the professors to spell out every single task for them. I somehow had the impression that the universities are the best in the world, yet after speaking to her I am thinking I might be wrong…
That’s interesting to read! I think it really depends on the university and the professors as well (just like anywhere else) but yes, memorization is probably normal given its tediousness in Asia! Also, this is how the students were raised. It’s not easy to live here!
Hi Charmaine,
I also pledged to myself that I will not live in Hong Kong, ever. I have visited Hong Kong 9 times over the past 10 years because my husband is from Hong Kong. Every visit was fun and amazing but rationally, I cannot phantom the OTs, living in a box with your relatives and spending your lifetime saving money to buy that little space to call home. Ironically, after the last visit, my heart tells me to take the lucrative opportunity offered in Hong Kong similar to your situation a few years ago. I am afraid I would hate it after a few years but I’m trying to be as open as possible.
Sometimes I think it’s what you make it to be. If you go with an open mind and make the best out of what you have, I believe the outcome will be optimistic and positive. I think we are more fortunate than many people in Hong Kong because (I assume) you have dual citizenship and can escape Hong Kong if it become unbearable. All in all, I hope I am making the right decision but I won’t lie that I am a little scared. Wish me luck!
Hi Sophia! Thank you for your message. I’m so glad that we have similar experiences. I have lived here for close to three years and I think as much as I struggle, I have learned that there is also many positive things in Hong Kong. Stay open and try it for yourself! Living and visiting are definitely two different things – and everyone has a different experience – based on their support system and the environment. I definitely wish you the best of luck and if you need anything along the way, don’t hesitate to ask! I would love to help! 🙂
Hi, I pretty much agree with everything. I lived in HK in 2001-2002, then visited for vacation in 2005 and 2011 and I am now living in the city again with husband and kid for the last 2.5 years.
I love HK. It’s the best place I’ve lived in.
I agree it is expensive. I also really agree on the level of English going down. It is amazing and frankly I don’t really understand why. It’s less than a generation since I lived here the first time. People should not have lost their English…
The only thing I don’t really agree with, is the transportation. I think it is just wonderful in HK and well planned. There are more than 800 lines of buses without counting the minibuses! Even when lines are long you don’t wait that long. In the subway changing from one line to another generally means taking the train on the opposite platform. It is not as crowded as other cities where people really squiz in the train. And as a western you are usually taller 😉
The thing I really love about HK is contrasts: city/nature (being able to start a hike in the centre and suddenly be surrounded by tropical vegetation and not see a building), modern/traditional, quietness/partying, western/asian…
I left the first time and I regreted it. Now I hope I’m here for many more years.
Enjoy!
Hi Sophie! Thank you for commenting! I’m glad it resonates with you. The reason why English is going down is because of the change in the education system and that there is more Chinese (Cantonese or Mandarin) schools are in place. Before with the British, there were more English schools. In addition, English is devalued and the expectations for students to speak fluently has gone down. The expectation is no longer the same as it was before. I have also stayed here for 2.5 years now 🙂
Hi!
I saw your post on the HK Expats FB group!
Interesting read.
Richard Bralux
I moved here in 2005 to work for couple of years before returning to New York City, where we had a great life and a house. This is 2017 and we are still here. Hong Kong is absolutely the best place I have ever lived in. Agree that it is a very expensive place to live. But that make many people hungry to do well financially. I left my mid-leve job at Citi to set up my own financial business, which I sold couple of years ago. Now I am a tech entrepreneur building a great business and investing in couple of others. I wouldn’t have been able to do this if I were still in New York. I have recently opened an office in New York and travel there every other month. There is no better hub than HK.
I feel very fortunate. But this city has allowed me to set up businesses with minimal difficulties and succeed. Cannot be more grateful to Hong Kong.
Thank you for sharing your experience! I agree that we are very fortunate to be living here, even if it is expensive. It has been an incredible experience for me as well (sometimes better than others) but I have enjoyed it!
Thank you for the balance and fair words on this city, where I was born and lived for 21 years before I left for 3 years. Now I am back and I am really struggling to enjoy it.
For a start, you basically summed up a lot of situations here in different departments, so maybe I can contribute my opinion as of why it is the case. Here area few points:
1. Hong Kong are made for the rich and wealthy
2. Protections for the establishment is everything, improving life quality for ordinary citizens is secondary
3. You cannot have a life within a second passport.
As education, you mentioned it well. Quality education is only for the wealthy, and the many local schools, the teaching is incredibly dull. They are not trying to educate children so they will have their own thoughts, they are trying to get them to obey the crazy game in which you will have to climb the social ladder at all times. It is very sad to see how one dimensional the education system can be.
Furthermore, food quality is staggeringly bad if you are not paying double, or triple the price you would be paying anywhere else for some OK quality food. The environment of local restaurants are normally dirty, loud and service is virtually in non-existence. I no longer eat out but almost only cook due to my low salary, but even food in supermarket is extremely pricy if you want some fresher and better products. Again, if you are rich, no problems; but if not, it is not something you want in your daily life.
The most lacking element is: SPACE. You need space for everything, imagine you like piano, but you don’t even have your own room; imagine if you like cycling, but there is so few places you can do it here; imagine if you like cooking, but most people don’t even have an oven. As a result, people who are’t privileged enough to experience life in another places become extremely boring because all they know is to spend time shopping or watching local trashy tele programmes. They have few interests to hobbies, have nothing to talk about in life because they cannot experience it. They cannot rent, cannot buy, never have a housemate, never buy furniture for themselves, never deal with a landlord, etc. When you are restricted in the most basic elements in life, you become incapacitated as a person.
My final point, if that you will feel it is all just an experience IF you have a foreign passport. Hong Kong is a place for you to earn money, to build a career, and to climb up the social ladder. It is never meant for living a “normal” life, bringing up a family, or doing what most people would do in a normal country. Imagine if you don’t have your Canadian passport, would you feel different to your situation? I would guess the answer is “Yes”. For people who are local and not well-educated, their life is pretty much a competition.
Sorry for the long comment! Thanks again!
OMG you completely read my mind! Haha! As you know, I also have a somewhat love-hate relationship with the HK I called home for five years, but the love always wins out (to be fair, I have love-hate relationship with my home country that definitely leans towards the hate side!). Unfortunately, nowhere is perfect, but experiencing living somewhere new to you means that your eyes are opened to a way of life that is different to your own. In some ways that way of life is ‘better’ and in others ‘worse’, and it always makes you appreciate where you came from. You’ll never see Canada in the same way again.
Absolutely! Every place I lived, it gives me perspective and makes me appreciate Canada so much more. I’m starting to have a strong appreciation for Hong Kong as well, while battling it at times. 🙂
Hi Charmaine, thanks for notifying me about this post. I like the comparisons and can fully agree to your statements, as I have also listed most of them in my article in a similar way. However, your paragraph on education was very interesting, as it taught me a few things I had not known before. Thank you for that! Regarding entertainment, I would like to add top-class museums on the positive side, whereas I am still missing world-class music (pop or orchestra/classical music), theater or musical performances. Such gigs exist and occasionally take place, but compared to other world cities you rather have to actively search for it and won’t stumble upon great shows at every corner.
Thanks so much Dennis! I equally enjoyed reading about your points as well. I think I was very lucky to work in the education sector because that taught me a lot about the society as a whole and what kind of pressure they had to live with growing up. It is especially visible with kids and children who have to accustomed to that lifestyle at a young age, and it is definitely one of the first signs of inequality in Hong Kong.